top of page
  • Writer's pictureIt's an amazing life

Scandiroads #8 Leaving my Lofoten love at the waters

Updated: Apr 26, 2020

Today was already the last day at this unreal magically gorgeous island. As a delicious goodbye-gift, the sun was shining a pleasant 20 degrees. It was the perfect day for a perfect activity: a boat trip. As mentioned I usually do not undertake a lot of paid activities because those are what costs so much, but this one was irresistible, too adventurous to ignore. But what was also impossible to ignore was the fact that quite close by, there was a tiny beach. I already have zero discipline when I see a beach, all I want is to burry myself in the sand and if these freezing depths allowed me, bathe in the water. Which one it would be I would see, for now I packed the beachgear instead of the hiking gear, I deserved ‘this day off’.



After a surprisingly short drive of only 15 minutes, I left the main road for a small curvy on by a mountainside, following what I thought was a small lake. But as mostly, the waters here were all shaped by the ocean, its salty water flowing through. The tiny sandy beach was hidden behind an abandoned empty cabin, yet I never expected that once I looked around its corner, I found nobody else at this tiny little beach. It was literally about 10 meters wide but existed out of that perfectly soft white sand, almost blinding your eyes due to the sparkling sun but for a change, not burning at your feet as it was only 20 degrees. As the mountains forced this water to a lake-alike shape, the little waves arriving at the beach were innocent, but chilly. First I really had to enjoy some of this warmth that had been absent since the first day of arrival in Norway. So I placed my but in the sand and let the sunrises burn my face, that was totally unfamiliar with this warmth thus far.




My view was absolutely incredible, the ‘lake’ in front of me was totally clear and where the depts got too deep, it created a dark blue plain, barely moving, not making any sound. Behind it the mountains showed of their deepest green, put in spotlights by the brightness of the sun. From my guarding point I saw only 3 cabins and 1 boat, I constantly expected someone else to find this place too but thus far I had my own little private beach, and I secretly did not want to go to back to the harbour anymore. But time was ticking and money was paid, so I now emerged myself with the chilly Lofoten waters, carefully. Foot by foot, sort of trying to suck up the sunlight trough my skin to keep me warm in these waters. The sand below me starting creating this underwater smoke which made I was not able to avoid the mussels, cracked open by one of the many gulls that by far overcame the amount of people here. The water was so incredibly clear and clean, I felt safe cooling down my legs by having a seat at the bottom. I felt the water creating little circles around me, heard the sound of sloshing water behind me arriving at the baby-beach. And I watched the cold clear water in front of me colliding with the mountains, shaped like sharp knives, not even a kilometre away.



I did not hear a sound besides the water (the screaming of the gulls I still considered silence), did not feel a thing besides it’s cold, and simply stared at how everything here seemed to be silent and still, even though so much live was going on behind these scenes. I was as still as everything around me even though also behind these scenes a lot was going on, a lot of feelings and thoughts, but all evolving around this 1 emotion: happiness. But now it was time to go, usually I would’ve grabbed my camera and my book and my sunlotion, although the last one I should’ve implemented already. But instead I walked back to my car, having to live with the sand in my clothes, and drove back to the harbour of Svolvaer.




Svolvaer had a cute colourful little harbour, packed with people enjoying these rare sunny days. It was the only town where you actually found a gathering of apartment buildings, but I didn’t really care for those and just entered the boat that was floating in the harbour, so I could take in some more of the sun, now balancing around 23 degrees. I almost napped away at the boat, floating, warmth, the ultimate combination to nap, and I got myself a small heart attack when a loud voice announced we’d soon head off. A loud roar announced the motors being ready to go, before we drifted off, floating over the waters so green that it was comparable to emerald at its brightest, reflecting the sunlight and creating an explosion of sparkles. The mountains around us got further and further away from us as we went deeper and deeper into the waters. The mountains around me looked as if the sun had always been shining here, dry and rocky, starting rather flat but soon rising up as a blade, creating the sharpest and strangest silhouettes. The water now got so deep that it turned deep blue and wild, and the boat jumped to conquer the waves. Of course because of the weather I’d chosen the front deck, but I underestimated the winds of the fjords. Even now, 20 degrees and full sunshine, the fjords proved to be kings of nature. The wind raced trough the fjords with an overwhelming speed and cold. The further we went, the more adventurous the vibe turned. Wind going faster, pointy mountains closing in on us, the waves turning higher, forcing the ship to jump. The sunshine created spectacular views such as cristalclear waterfronts at the rocky beaches only a few metres away. The contrast between green mountains with silver tops, a plain blue sky, and dark blue waters, was unforgettable.




Now we entered the smallest fjord of Norway, 100 meters wide and 2 kilometres long. So basically impossible to enter, unless you’re on a tiny little boat. Ours suddenly started turning, wobbly due to the waves, turning its nose leftwards. ‘don’t go in there’ I literally mumbled to myself, seeing the way too small entrance to a way too small fjord. But confidently the boat entered the porches, after which the water had returned to its calm, emerald green. This water was protected from the rest of the ocean, by the mountains. The mountains were so close to the water that the only reason the mountains weren’t the water, was the fact that their sides went up totally steep. Nothing but plain rock grown with some bush, damaged by some holes that probably hid the rarest birds. The water bumped onto the walls, cold and clear, reflecting their depths. Here we anchored the boat, the sun could no longer reach us due to the mountains, but the wind was also blocked, as this fjord ended at nothing but another mountain. It was almost a mountainlake if not for the tiny hidden porchway. We were now at a place only possible to reach by the waters, by a small jumpy boat, hidden from the world already anyway. A place where nothing or nobody could live, except for the king of the world: an eagle.




The sea eagle was supposed to be playing for king somewhere around here, but so far besides some gulls following the boat I hadn’t seen anything alive. We slowly started heading back, and the gulls clearly knew the daily schedule of this ship, because the second the guide grabbed the bread basket, they came from everywhere. I’d been seeing a few on the way, but now it was like all the lofoten-gulls teamed up. With a surprising speed they started following the boat, I was just sitting on the deck throwing the bread around for as far as I could with the crazy winds going on. But the gulls were focussed and determined and like acrobats of the air they caught all of the bread flying around dramatically. As I was sitting on the deck, still taking in the rare warmth of the sun, my eye fell on a black dot in the air. But then it got closer, and closer. And then I could see wings, and a beautiful sound confirmed my guesses. The beautiful scream of an eagle, slowly approaching the boat as all the gulls loured its attention. My mouth just popped right open, it had been a secret dream of mine to see such a beautiful mighty animal in real life. It stayed on a safe distance and suspiciously circled around the boat, but I could see its feathers dancing in the wind, its wings circling around without any effort. And as the sun finally managed to burn my face, I realized, hidden in the fjords, floating on the cristalclear waters, surrounded by quiet, untouched nature and birds, that this was one of the best adventures of my life.


- It's an amazing life



91 views0 comments

コメント


bottom of page