I know most people that visit Finland, do not necessarily consider the south. Most prefer to go upwards, into this other dimension of trees and trees alone, called Lapland. I cannot blame them, honestly. But for those who are on a slightly smaller budget or timeframe, it really is not simply a suitable option B, it is very much comparable to fairytale land Lapland. Because just like Lapland, Finland basically exists entirely of pine trees and lakes. Sure, the south has some more cities to it and a few more cars on the road, but the authenticity of these cities and the lengths of these roads, are just as pure in the south as in the north. Sure, the north also has the reindeer, snow and northern lights, but then again there is no need to compare nor differentiate, because every place is beautiful by its uniqueness. Our journey begun in Helsinki, the healthy, happy capital city of Finland. It wasn’t my first visit to this capital that felt strangely like a possible new home, but it was the first time in winter. Call it my fascination with winter or a lack of research, but I was so incredibly happy to see the city covered in white. Helsinki may not have a huge amount of old squares and buildings left like its neighbor capital Stockholm, it still has more than Oslo. But to stick with the trend of beauty by uniqueness, lets focus on the capital of the country that has so many faces; always cold – everlasting sunshine, northern lights – rainy summers, quiet introverts – lovely locals, not so culinary – amazing Nordic kitchen, - “just a forest” – a nature lovers heaven. Many opinions about Finland travel the world, but I am only here to share my extremely positive one.
Even in the capital city of Helsinki, the air is so uncommonly clean, as if you are still in the middle of the forest. A fresh, minty air, a pretty cold one too in February. The snow gave a very clean and cozy vibe to the city that made use of the long winter by illuminating their many bars and stores and draw a lot of happy people. That is another fun fact I really have to share; the Finnish people are often considered the happiest people in the world. Ironic maybe because they are indeed a bit more introvert and they usually do not enjoy putting their inner selves in a spotlight, average perception. But their happiness is not outed trough loud laughter and random dancing. They enjoy surrounding themselves with the many pine trees in their country or bathing in the many clean lakes in between those trees. They have the beautiful gift of endless roads and hiking possibilities, clean air, plenty of quiet and peace around and always in a near distance, and, boring yet important fact; they have a wonderful social system. Even Helsinki is so incredibly clean, there is no trash around anywhere. People aren’t stressing and pushing, cars aren’t honking, it really is so peaceful that you wouldn’t think it is a capital. And it is amazing how green it still is, the many parks around offer little save havens in case the center still is too intense for you. And for those who do come to the city to emerge in the city life, there are so many super hip bars, highly culinary Michelin star restaurants, and both cute, small authentic shops hidden in a corner, as well as the fancy high class shops with their massive windows.
Helsinki is usually not considered as the first one to pop up for European city trips. It is more of a weekend trip for those passing trough to Lapland or boat-tripping in from Estonia. The reason for that is probably that is does not have a large amount of impressive old buildings and market squares, you have to try a little harder to actually discover the identity of the city and that is what I find charming. They do not try to be something they are not, they do not hyperfocus on being a tourist pearl. We did that by, for example, discovering one of the many islands around Helsinki. In summer time Helsinki turns into the absolute dream for swimming, camping, hiking, barbecuing, and festivals. In winter, only the little island of Suomenlinna was reachable with the ferry, as around a thousand people live there still. That is in summertime, at least. In the winter I think nobody lived there, as all the houses seemed quiet and alone. But this is why travelling in winter to Finland is all the more magic; it is not only a beautiful winter scene, it is so peaceful and personal. The island was filled with beautiful yellow, red, blue, and even pink wooden houses, as authentic as it gets. Little balconies, many chimneys, it was like walking through a Moomin- or Pippi movie. The hilly, cobble stone streets offered beautiful scenery such as snowy, abandoned bikes, cats quickly escaping through adorable little, wooden porches. Colorful birds chirping in the frozen bush, picking breadcrumbs of the street. Swans floating sleepily over the dark waters for the beautiful contrast. The island was so quiet, that my heart jumped with joy and surprise when I saw a pink little café called Vanilla.
Vanilla was the most adorable pink café, with only 3 tables inside, an impressive collection of old coffee cans, and the cutest homemade pastries (Finland is very good at both sweet and savory pastries). Finland was so surprising, so loving, so adorable. And I was so blown away by their culinary IQs, having dined at Finnjavel & Natura, Michelin restaurants using local, biological ingredients for the freshest, homemade flavors of wonders. It is the kind of food so beautifully presented and so heavenly tasting you simply want to cry. Some examples are the softest, smokiest salmon in the world, decorated with flowers, or the most beautiful little snowy dessert filled with frozen yoghurt and honey. And they are so extremely enjoyable after a cold stroll trough the cities high buildings, that turn smaller and a little less pretty as you leave the center for peaceful, yet well-faring neighborhoods. An evening stroll in the harbor with its massive ships and red- and white stunning church icons, is just as enjoyable as a breakfast walk through the market hall with Finnish delicacies, where I fell for a Laplandic cloudberry jam. Being lucky enough to spend almost a full week here, we also decided to give a chance to another city that had some credits for being one of the very few preserved old towns in Finland; Porvoo. A bus ride in Finland to me is pure passion; you get to sit for at least an hour because of distances, so the busses are always high and comfortable, yet still quiet because the more you leave the city, the quieter life gets. You pass endless sceneries of pine trees and lakes, white plains with peaceful farms with smokey chimneys.
And for real, those bus drivers are friendly as hell, probably they get in some happy trance driving trough nature all day in a bus that is almost disturbingly quiet, as are the Finns (i admire it, rethinking of my favorite saying from a Finnish friend; if you have nothing to say, do not speak. Arriving in Porvoo I quickly understood what the hype was all about. Crossing the bridge, on our left an adorable little hill appeared filled with the colors of old, wooden houses, building up to a white brick church. The rest of the city was modern, and again, had a very pleasant, quiet and calm feeling to it. We enjoyed a stroll trough the old town of Porvoo, highly suggested for those visiting the South. It could not get much more authentic Scandinavian if you tried; wooden houses in all colors one can imagine, small windows with orange lightning and handmade products, either edible or wearable. Plentiful choice in food and beverage, snow on the quiet cobble streets that went surprisingly steep, and, yes, even the pine trees lurking at the bottom of the hill. People were going for winter strolls or enjoying the warm cafes, and it was such a happy little world. Café Helmi was probably our favorite stop, the coziest-ever café that was turned into an old Scandinavian living room, highlighted by its warmth, cakes and teas, and the fact that the owner walked around in a handknitted sweater, followed by her 2 tiny poodles that wore the same sweaters. Places like that always make me so magically happy. People come to chat, to enjoy some warmth while walking their dog, to have family time. There are no phones, there is no chaos, just people having a happy time. Everyone here was so happy and at peace, as was entire Porvoo, Helsinki, and Finland, happy with the little things yet grateful for all the big.
- Its an amazing life
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